the Globe, 07-08-2005

the Globe
75 5th St.
Atlanta, GA
404-541-1487
http://www.globeatlanta.com/

(as printed in The Southern Voice, www.southernvoice.com)

Catching a VIP vibe

New midtown restaurant blends cool décor with hot dishes that offer a Globe-al chill.

Friday, July 08, 2005

JUST Walking into the Globe is a pleasure all its own. A cool color palate and a modern open design is punctuated by large cream-colored glowing globes suspended from the ceiling.

It’s an extraordinary space. Low furnishings lend a casual yet sophisticated feel to a vibe so hip that diners could swear they are perched in the hottest new restaurant in SoHo.

Books and laptops are more than welcome here, but even with its proximity to Georgia Tech, the Globe is no college hang out.

Quite simply, this place is hot. Young and sexy servers whip around the dining areas to low-thumping neo soul music. The Globe is a place like none other in Atlanta. Hints of industrial elements are mixed with chic casual comfort.

But the motif of the Globe’s design scheme is merely fancy, if not fine, dressing for a wonderfully able kitchen. Chef Josh Perkins, formerly of Commune, brings an apt hand and a flair for simple dishes with complex flavors to the Globe.

The menu OFFERS THE most noteworthy nod to the restaurant’s name. It encompasses ingredients and flavors from regions, literally, around the globe. An easy favorite are grilled Georgia peaches topped with Spanish blue cheese and served with a helping of Serrano ham ($9). The peaches are sweet, firm and grilled perfectly; the cheese and ham add a salty balance to the dish.

Another starter, crab fritters with an orange-mango salad ($7), blends the pungent-ness of the meat with the sweetness of the fruit. It’s a bold combination that works quite well.

Oysters ($8), grouper ceviche ($7), gazpacho ($4) and chorizo and sage croquettes ($5) are also available. “Graze plates” further demonstrate the Globe’s fancy for world flavors.

The Globe’s entrees range from rather pedestrian offerings including spicy spaghetti ($12) and a nicoise salad ($13), to more adventurous fare (coriander duck breast, $18). The duck is served skin-on, rubbed with a coriander mixture, grilled and served sliced on a pallet of wilted spinach. It’s heavy coriander, but the gamey duck easily carries the weight of the spice. It’s luscious.

Another rather ordinary but surprisingly tasty dish is the grilled skirt steak frites ($18). The steak is faultlessly grilled and mildly seasoned so the flavor of the prime meat shines through. The frites, or fries, are cut large and just a bit overcooked, but they are merely a vehicle to soak up the wonderful juice from the steak.

If “sopping” is your kind of thing.

Rounding out the menu is a list of desserts ($5.50) that again run the international gamut. From warm chocolate cake to espresso and orange panna cotta served with chocolate biscotti, the dessert menu is a belt-busting topper to a wonderful meal. Save room for one of these delights.

An extensive wine menu ranges from inexpensive Italian proseco to midpriced French bordeaux. The selection bumps up the sophistication level another notch. Available by the glass, split or bottle, this list of libations is one of the city’s finest.

Whether lounging after work with some bubbly and a few small plates, or bringing your special honey out for a well-prepared meal, the Globe is hard to beat for a casually stylish time.

And if the diners are looking for a place to accommodate a large group or just want that VIP vibe scene, the Globe offers a private room called the “Library.” Complete with bookcases and sitting areas, the room can be closed off from the rest of the restaurant. It’s a perfect spot for special dinners or a jolly cocktail party.

The Globe succeeds where many of Atlanta’s newest bistros fail, combining hipness with hearty food, design with delicious plates. It’s a globe-al chill with no warming trend in sight.