(as published in The Southern Voice, www.sovo.com)
Toast
817 W. Peachtree Street
Suite E-125 Atlanta, GA
404.815.9243
http://www.toastrestaurant.com/
Up-and-coming hotspot offers inspired dishes from starters to desserts that are sure to send diners to Wonderland.
When visiting a new restaurant, I sometimes feel like Alice, having fallen down the rabbit hole and thinking, “I suppose I ought to eat or drink something or other; but the great question is, what?”
That’s certainly a great question at Toast, one of the newest, tastiest spots to make a name for itself in Atlanta.
Occupying a bottom corner in the historic Biltmore hotel, Toast is bright and airy with dramatic tangerine and lime walls. The space maintains an industrial feel, and there is a patio that’s highly manicured, covered and comfortable.
Blonde wood furnishings and concrete block walls blend effortlessly with glossy orange chairs and a steel and aluminum accented bar. A deep tangerine logo wall is the focal point of the main dining room, and a couple of flat screen televisions add to the lofty, modern feel.
Toast COMBINES small plates and starters with heartier entrees. The wait staff is well informed, taking several minutes to explain certain dishes and offering suggestions.
I start with a soup of the day, which at most places is pretty typical fare. But at Toast, as in Wonderland, things aren’t always what they appear to be.
I’m served a bowl of chilled tomato and melon soup, sprinkled with a chiffonade of basil and drizzled in olive oil with a scoop of Tang sorbet in the middle.
That’s right, Tang sorbet — made from the drink of the astronauts. But Neil Armstrong himself couldn’t walk higher than the high this soup inspires. Cool and fresh, tangy and tart, it’s wonderful for a summer day. Or a winter day. Or any other day.
Other starters follow, including an antipasti of artisian meats, olives and eggplant caponata, a calamari, flash fried and topped with a mixture of tomato, mango and herbs. Then there’s Toast’s cheese plate containing a chef’s selection with dollops of pureed beets and olive tapenade. These nibbles are above the status quo for appetizers.
Toast offers gourmet sandwiches, salads and entrees like Chef Drew’s submarine sandwich ($9) made with prosciutto, serrano, cappicola, roasted tomatoes and feta cheese. Or try Kellie’s chicken salad ($7) with white grapes, dried cranberries and marcona almonds.
But I go for the salmon sandwich and the pulled chicken sandwich. The salmon sandwich ($8) is served on a soft baguette and topped with an arugula pesto, pecorino cheese and tomato. The salmon is seared then baked off, delivering a tasty and light sandwich.
The chicken in the pulled chicken sandwich ($7) is doused in a tangy barbecue sauce and loaded onto toasted house made bread with arugula, sun-dried tomatoes and pecorino cheese. Served with crispy, thick cut potatoes, it’s a tremendous, tasty little feast. Or should that be a Toast-y feast?
I anticipate my experience with Toast will keep surprising me through the dessert menu. Not only does the restaurant deliver, it might force diners to re-evaluate how they define “surprising.”
Blueberry pie with cookie dough ice cream ($6), fresh made sorbets ($5) and a chocolate caramel tart (priced daily) served with goat cheese ice cream are a few of Toast’s enchanting desserts. Today’s special sorbet is strawberry and rosemary, a nice blend of fresh flavors that is one of the best sorbets I’ve had.
Slightly heavier than the sorbet is the chocolate caramel tart. Who would have thought to mix goat cheese ice cream with deep, dark warm chocolate? But it works — boy, does it work. It’s smiles all around with this Queen of Tarts.
Fun and funky, with a neighborhood vibe, Toast is sure to please foodies with its inspired preparation and culinary boldness. It also appeals to happening jet-setters looking for the next hotspot.
Chef Drew Van Luevan and company have designed a delightful, scrumptious eatery that is sure to gain fans.
Unlike Alice, I never want to leave this Wonderland.
Friday, August 20, 2004
Friday, August 13, 2004
In Memory of Julia Child, 08-13-2004
"Dining with one's friends and beloved family is certainly one of life's primal and most innocent delights, one that is both soul-satisfying and eternal ... In spite of food fads, fitness programs, and health concerns, we must never lose sight of a beautifully conceived meal."
~Julia Child, 1912-2004
Julia Child, whose warbling, encouraging voice and able hands brought the intricacies of French cuisine to American home cooks through her television series and books, has died. She was 91.
"America has lost a true national treasure," Nicholas Latimer, director of publicity for the famed chef's publisher, Alfred A. Knopf, said in a statement Friday. "She will be missed terribly."
Child died at 2:50 a.m. Friday at her home in an assisted living center in Montecito, a coastal town about 90 miles northwest of Los Angeles, said her niece, Philadelphia Cousins. A statement released earlier by Latimer said Child died Thursday.
"She passed away in her sleep," Cousins said. "She was with family and friends and her kitten, Minou. She had cookbooks and many paintings by her husband Paul around the house."
Child, who died two days before her 92nd birthday, had been suffering from kidney failure, Cousins said.
A memorial service for family members was planned, but Child asked that no funeral be held, Cousins said.
A 6-foot-2 American folk hero, "The French Chef" was known to her public as Julia, and preached a delight not only in good food but in sharing it, ending her landmark public television lessons at a set table and with the wish, "Bon appetit."
"Dining with one's friends and beloved family is certainly one of life's primal and most innocent delights, one that is both soul-satisfying and eternal," she said in the introduction to her seventh book, "The Way to Cook." "In spite of food fads, fitness programs, and health concerns, we must never lose sight of a beautifully conceived meal."
Chipper and unpretentious, she beckoned everyone to give good food a try.
She wasn't always tidy in the kitchen, and just like the rest of us, she sometimes dropped things or had trouble getting a cake out of its mold.
In an A-line skirt and blouse, and an apron with a dish towel tucked into the waist, Julia Child grew familiar enough to be parodied by Dan Aykroyd on NBC's "Saturday Night Live" and the subject of Jean Stapleton's musical revue, "Bon Appetit." She was on the cover of Time magazine in 1966.
~Julia Child, 1912-2004
Julia Child, whose warbling, encouraging voice and able hands brought the intricacies of French cuisine to American home cooks through her television series and books, has died. She was 91.
"America has lost a true national treasure," Nicholas Latimer, director of publicity for the famed chef's publisher, Alfred A. Knopf, said in a statement Friday. "She will be missed terribly."
Child died at 2:50 a.m. Friday at her home in an assisted living center in Montecito, a coastal town about 90 miles northwest of Los Angeles, said her niece, Philadelphia Cousins. A statement released earlier by Latimer said Child died Thursday.
"She passed away in her sleep," Cousins said. "She was with family and friends and her kitten, Minou. She had cookbooks and many paintings by her husband Paul around the house."
Child, who died two days before her 92nd birthday, had been suffering from kidney failure, Cousins said.
A memorial service for family members was planned, but Child asked that no funeral be held, Cousins said.
A 6-foot-2 American folk hero, "The French Chef" was known to her public as Julia, and preached a delight not only in good food but in sharing it, ending her landmark public television lessons at a set table and with the wish, "Bon appetit."
"Dining with one's friends and beloved family is certainly one of life's primal and most innocent delights, one that is both soul-satisfying and eternal," she said in the introduction to her seventh book, "The Way to Cook." "In spite of food fads, fitness programs, and health concerns, we must never lose sight of a beautifully conceived meal."
Chipper and unpretentious, she beckoned everyone to give good food a try.
She wasn't always tidy in the kitchen, and just like the rest of us, she sometimes dropped things or had trouble getting a cake out of its mold.
In an A-line skirt and blouse, and an apron with a dish towel tucked into the waist, Julia Child grew familiar enough to be parodied by Dan Aykroyd on NBC's "Saturday Night Live" and the subject of Jean Stapleton's musical revue, "Bon Appetit." She was on the cover of Time magazine in 1966.
Monday, August 02, 2004
Philly Foodie Feast, 08-02-2004
(as published on www.outinamerica.com)
A quick trip to Philadelphia offers food, fun and freedom
Philadelphia: Independence Hall. The Rocky Steps. The Liberty Bell.
Fabulous dining? A thriving gay and lesbian population?
Oh yes.
You’ve been to the City of Brotherly Love. You’ve seen the birthplace of freedom and walked the streets Benjamin Franklin walked and have wanted to ring that old cracked bell for all it’s worth. You may have even climbed those Rocky Steps and found that you are not in as great shape as you thought (did you know that the back entrance to the museum has less than 15 steps? Suckers!).
But have you EATEN Philadelphia?
Some of the most innovative and talented chefs in the country call Philly home. The city is jam packed with bistros, diners, BYOBs, and local restaurants. With a free weekend to kill and a quick plane ride, a great foodie trip to Philly can be yours – if you’re daring enough to try it.
Philadelphia’s ‘Gayborhood” is the best place to begin. Arriving at the airport mid-morning on a Saturday, a quick train ride (most fares, $5.50) to Market Street East station drops passengers off at the edge of the “hood”, as the locals have named it. The Gayborhood is located in Center City, a mixed use downtown revitalization project which is home to many Gay and Lesbian shops, bars, clubs, and restaurants. It shows – people walking or jogging, taking pets for outdoor constitutionals, drag queens and leather daddies standing on the same street corner.
First, a quick lunch. More Than Just Ice Cream (1119 Locust St.) is an unassuming, pleasant establishment offering –you guessed it- ice cream, but more. Divided into two dining areas, one with an ice cream counter and the other a proper dining room, locals meet and chat over plates of surprisingly good food. The wait staff is typical funky 20-somethings, but they are well versed in the menu and are easy to suggest favorites. Omelettes and salads are big on the menu as are sandwiches and fruits. A dessert menu is available however, with an old fashioned ice cream counter just steps away, I’m sure it doesn’t see much action.
Afternoons in Philadelphia can be spent walking the historic Society Hill streets or shopping on Walnut Street: think 5th Avenue but Philly style. The Reading Terminal Market (51 N. 12th St, #2) makes for interesting ‘farmers market’ style wandering and the many street vendors offering cheese steaks around the Liberty Bell park can help curb that mid afternoon snack hunger.
But save room for later because later promises to be a wing-dinger of a night.
A great start to the evening is pre-dinner snacks and drinks at El Vez (121-123 S. 13th St). One of restaurateur Stephen Starr’s newest additions to the Philly scene, El Vez is a brightly colored Mexican influenced corner spot just buzzing with young, single urbanites schmoozing and flirting over blood orange margaritas and snacking on probably the best tortilla chips ever made. Thick and crunchy, these chips come with a chunky guacamole served in a solid cast iron pot. The décor and vibe at El Vez is high energy and brightly colored, but is not a place for dinner conversation. The crowd can get a bit rowdy and soundproofing was obviously not paramount on the designers mind.
Across the street from El Vez is Lolita (106 S. 13th St), another recently opened restaurant in Philadelphia. Owner Valerie Safran and Chef/Owner Marcie Turney have worked to make this small and intimate setting an industrial but ultimately romantic space. Red brick walls and a completely open kitchen add to the warehouse feel, while low lighting and muted colors make a sensual space, perfect for a first date or a group meal. The menu is Latin influenced, with an American style. Ranging from pork chops to skirt steak to duck, the entrée selection offers something for every taste.
Instead of dessert at dinner, a quick hop and step to Capogiro (119 S. 13th St.) for gelato comes next. Serving gourmet gelato (over 20 flavors) in a small storefront, it’s the perfect way to curb that uneasy feeling having just finished a sumptuous dinner. The champagne mango gelato is great, as is the Mexican Chocolate – but watch out, it has a kick!
If a walk is in order after feasting like this, a stroll to Bump (1234 Locust St.) for cocktails is a flawless way to round out the evening. Bump is an ultra-loungey, ultra-hip, ultra-gay cocktail bar where the people are pretty and the servers, prettier. Specializing in high end martinis and trendy bar food, Bump offers a simultaneously energetic and serene finish to a great dining experience in Philadelphia.
Philly is a great town for eating and the chefs there know it. Bistros, BYOBs and eclectic eateries offer something for the foodie in all of us.
Bring your loose pants and enjoy Philadelphia’s Food!
A quick trip to Philadelphia offers food, fun and freedom
Philadelphia: Independence Hall. The Rocky Steps. The Liberty Bell.
Fabulous dining? A thriving gay and lesbian population?
Oh yes.
You’ve been to the City of Brotherly Love. You’ve seen the birthplace of freedom and walked the streets Benjamin Franklin walked and have wanted to ring that old cracked bell for all it’s worth. You may have even climbed those Rocky Steps and found that you are not in as great shape as you thought (did you know that the back entrance to the museum has less than 15 steps? Suckers!).
But have you EATEN Philadelphia?
Some of the most innovative and talented chefs in the country call Philly home. The city is jam packed with bistros, diners, BYOBs, and local restaurants. With a free weekend to kill and a quick plane ride, a great foodie trip to Philly can be yours – if you’re daring enough to try it.
Philadelphia’s ‘Gayborhood” is the best place to begin. Arriving at the airport mid-morning on a Saturday, a quick train ride (most fares, $5.50) to Market Street East station drops passengers off at the edge of the “hood”, as the locals have named it. The Gayborhood is located in Center City, a mixed use downtown revitalization project which is home to many Gay and Lesbian shops, bars, clubs, and restaurants. It shows – people walking or jogging, taking pets for outdoor constitutionals, drag queens and leather daddies standing on the same street corner.
First, a quick lunch. More Than Just Ice Cream (1119 Locust St.) is an unassuming, pleasant establishment offering –you guessed it- ice cream, but more. Divided into two dining areas, one with an ice cream counter and the other a proper dining room, locals meet and chat over plates of surprisingly good food. The wait staff is typical funky 20-somethings, but they are well versed in the menu and are easy to suggest favorites. Omelettes and salads are big on the menu as are sandwiches and fruits. A dessert menu is available however, with an old fashioned ice cream counter just steps away, I’m sure it doesn’t see much action.
Afternoons in Philadelphia can be spent walking the historic Society Hill streets or shopping on Walnut Street: think 5th Avenue but Philly style. The Reading Terminal Market (51 N. 12th St, #2) makes for interesting ‘farmers market’ style wandering and the many street vendors offering cheese steaks around the Liberty Bell park can help curb that mid afternoon snack hunger.
But save room for later because later promises to be a wing-dinger of a night.
A great start to the evening is pre-dinner snacks and drinks at El Vez (121-123 S. 13th St). One of restaurateur Stephen Starr’s newest additions to the Philly scene, El Vez is a brightly colored Mexican influenced corner spot just buzzing with young, single urbanites schmoozing and flirting over blood orange margaritas and snacking on probably the best tortilla chips ever made. Thick and crunchy, these chips come with a chunky guacamole served in a solid cast iron pot. The décor and vibe at El Vez is high energy and brightly colored, but is not a place for dinner conversation. The crowd can get a bit rowdy and soundproofing was obviously not paramount on the designers mind.
Across the street from El Vez is Lolita (106 S. 13th St), another recently opened restaurant in Philadelphia. Owner Valerie Safran and Chef/Owner Marcie Turney have worked to make this small and intimate setting an industrial but ultimately romantic space. Red brick walls and a completely open kitchen add to the warehouse feel, while low lighting and muted colors make a sensual space, perfect for a first date or a group meal. The menu is Latin influenced, with an American style. Ranging from pork chops to skirt steak to duck, the entrée selection offers something for every taste.
Instead of dessert at dinner, a quick hop and step to Capogiro (119 S. 13th St.) for gelato comes next. Serving gourmet gelato (over 20 flavors) in a small storefront, it’s the perfect way to curb that uneasy feeling having just finished a sumptuous dinner. The champagne mango gelato is great, as is the Mexican Chocolate – but watch out, it has a kick!
If a walk is in order after feasting like this, a stroll to Bump (1234 Locust St.) for cocktails is a flawless way to round out the evening. Bump is an ultra-loungey, ultra-hip, ultra-gay cocktail bar where the people are pretty and the servers, prettier. Specializing in high end martinis and trendy bar food, Bump offers a simultaneously energetic and serene finish to a great dining experience in Philadelphia.
Philly is a great town for eating and the chefs there know it. Bistros, BYOBs and eclectic eateries offer something for the foodie in all of us.
Bring your loose pants and enjoy Philadelphia’s Food!
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