Taurus, 10-28-2005

Taurus
1745 Peachtree Road
Atlanta, GA 30309
404-214-0641
www.taurusrestaurant.com

(as printed in The Southern Voice, www.sovo.com)

A chophouse on Peachtree
Well-executed menu and swanky surroundings could make Taurus’ blend of steakhouse and modern bistro a recipe for success.

By RODNEY SMILEY
Friday, October 28, 2005

Atop the third level of an upscale Peachtree Street shopping center is Taurus, a new fusion of steakhouse and modern bistro featuring Chef Gary Mennie, formerly of Canoe. With its commanding presence overlooking the bustling thoroughfare and a partial Midtown skyline view from the wrap around balcony, Taurus has all the trappings of a mainstay for diners in Atlanta.

The sexy deep red décor, plush seating, including a spectacular center seating area, muted lighting and a whip-and-thwack of new jazz in the background make for an expectation of greatness.

But the climb to the top of Atlanta’s dining scene requires much more than window dressing.
Taurus boasts a return to the great American chophouse, a lofty goal in a city with no less than half a dozen well-regarded steakhouses. But as with most new restaurants, small mishaps and planning incongruities might work to dissuade diners.

On a recent visit, the team of hosts — with two separate check-in kiosks — not only directed me to the wrong table, but asked if I’d mind returning to the vestibule while they found the correct table.

A few minutes later, another host directed me to my table, complete with staff still polishing the previous diners’ drippings. The dining room was filled with young suburbanites and a smattering of city dwellers.

A large bar area, with a well stocked spirits wall and tables and booths for more casual dining, is available for those interested. It’s an open space with candles and several ready-to-pour bartenders.

A genuinely nice server welcomed me, though upon swooping in all smiles, advised me that he would be right back, but it wouldn’t be too long. On his return, menus in hand and suggestions on his brain, I get the chance to finally look at the night’s menu.

Taurus, in a rather novel move, offers the “roast of the day” in place of a soup of the day or a daily special. Each day is a different roast — one day, Prime Rib, another Rack of Veal. This visit being a Saturday night, the roast is a tempting Oak Roasted Pork Rack with marscapone polenta and a sweet onion marmalade.

To round out a thorough tasting of the menu, I choose a goat cheese and spinach salad with rosemary dressing, creamy artichoke soup with peekytoe crab, and my favorite surprise of the evening, crispy quail with grilled peaches and arugula.

After an annoyingly long wait, first to the table is the quail, served in little winglets that are crisply breaded and deep fried. It’s juicy, gamey and quite fantastic. Paired with the peaches it’s savory sweet satisfaction.

The goat cheese and spinach salad is lightly dressed with a clean and fresh rosemary dressing. It’s delightful.

Next to arrive is a small bowl of artichoke soup, seemingly without peekytoe crab. The soup is so well blended that I can’t determine if it contains the quirky-named crab. It’s bland and lukewarm, which is never a good combination for a soup.

Fortunately, the soup is outshined by the entrees that arrive.

Lamb chops and the evening’s roast-of-the-day Pork arrive, bringing with them the customary delight that former Canoe diners expect from Mennie.

Succulent, juicy and seasoned nearly to perfection, the lamb is the best I’ve had in quite some time. Similarly, whether due to Oak Roasting or some other kitchen magic, the pork, served in four large square cuts, is well worth an order. Not overly moist, but served with a glaze that provides a moist base, it’s a fine plate of pork.

The dessert menu at Taurus is standard fare — a tart of this, a slice of that — but the trio of house-made sorbets in varying flavors should be a quick favorite. From mango to coconut, raspberry to chocolate, they’re really light and refreshing after such a hearty meal.