Shout, 03-11-2005

(as printed in The Southern Voice, www.sovo.com)

Shout
1197 Peachtree Street NE
Atlanta, GA
404-364-9360

www.heretoserverestaurants.com

Tom Catherall IS one of Atlanta’s more prolific restaurateurs with mainstays including Prime, Goldfish and Noche. He now offers a newborn to his followers with Shout in Midtown Colony Square.

But this is no ordinary infant; it already has an attitude and ego large enough to cast shadows.

Based on the concept of its wildly popular big sister Twist (Twist and Shout, get it?), Shout has the potential to be as popular with the Midtown diners as its sibling is to the Buckhead crowd.
Hoards of smartly dressed urbanites are already crowding the space, sipping specialty martinis and flirting as if it were an Olympic trials event.

Shout is a place to drink and socialize and coincidentally grab a bite to eat, instead of being a destination for diners who like a drink with their meal. More loungey hot-spot than true restaurant, Shout feels schizophrenic: torn between being a lounge and a dining destination.

The Atlanta dining crowd is a fickle beast, not willing to share its need for fantastic dining experiences with the needs of the club-hopping meat market crowd. It’s the segregation of tribes that could keep Shout from growing up, stuck in its current incarnation as an expensive, transparent pick-up joint.

But the 18,000 square feet of space is gorgeous. The designers of Atlanta’s Johnson Studios have a great eye for the modern New York City hipster atmosphere. The space is hued in muted warm colors with an outdoor patio and an upcoming upstairs level. It’s a great place to sit and watch people mingle in the bar or to get a fresh view of the surrounding city blocks from the “Shout Out” patio.

And people are flocking to Shout. Sexy singles in a parade of designer clothes and stilettoed shoes spend time vying for the best seat from which to purvey the crowd.

Fruity cocktails and martinis seem to be the drink of choice, with a few casually dressed patrons who seem out of place in this uber-hip congregation. Very few of the customers are eating the exotic sounding plates and nibbles on the Shout menu.

Tapas is the name of the game. Fortunately, Chef Ian Winslade’s menu seems to reflect upscale and experienced tastes. Tandoori Roasted Fish with Crispy Coleslaw ($9) and Poached Salmon over a Green Bean, Feta, and Olive Salad with Tomato Anchovy dressing ($9) are just two of the more interesting Cold Plate choices.

There are also hot plates of Potato Samosas ($6) and an Open Faced Omelet with Tomato, Swiss Cheese and Arugula ($8) that are surprisingly tasty but could possibly alienate some inexperienced or unadventurous diners. Ditto the Asian Salad Bowls ($6 for large) are available as a design-your-own item.

The sandwich menu offering gourmet cheeses with steak and poultry choices ($7-$9) is a safe bet. Standard wood-fired pizzas and an Indian inspired Spice Market section round out the menu.

The Spice Market section of the menu is a welcome diversion from the usual Asian and Spanish tapas. Seared Tiger Shrimp and Green Chili Linguini ($13), Beef Short Ribs with Spiced Gnocchi ($15) and Moroccan Spiced Cornish Hen over Yellow Peppered Chickpeas with Goat Cheese ($12) warrant attention from lovers of exotic tastes.

Lost in this melting pot of flavors, I nearly forget where I am. The mixture of familiar and unexpected ingredients helps to drown out the chirping of tipsy 20-somethings flirting.
Shout is not, nor does it profess to be, a hot spot for Atlanta’s gay crowd, but I don’t feel out of place here. This crowd is too concerned with seeing and being seen to notice the lone gay man wrapped up in his meal.

Shout has hit Midtown with about as much subtlety as a boulder through plate glass. And aside from the ultra-cool, fashionista feel of the place, the menu succeeds despite the obvious detractions of dining in a singles bar.