Monday, August 02, 2004

Philly Foodie Feast, 08-02-2004

(as published on www.outinamerica.com)

A quick trip to Philadelphia offers food, fun and freedom



Philadelphia: Independence Hall. The Rocky Steps. The Liberty Bell.

Fabulous dining? A thriving gay and lesbian population?

Oh yes.

You’ve been to the City of Brotherly Love. You’ve seen the birthplace of freedom and walked the streets Benjamin Franklin walked and have wanted to ring that old cracked bell for all it’s worth. You may have even climbed those Rocky Steps and found that you are not in as great shape as you thought (did you know that the back entrance to the museum has less than 15 steps? Suckers!).

But have you EATEN Philadelphia?

Some of the most innovative and talented chefs in the country call Philly home. The city is jam packed with bistros, diners, BYOBs, and local restaurants. With a free weekend to kill and a quick plane ride, a great foodie trip to Philly can be yours – if you’re daring enough to try it.

Philadelphia’s ‘Gayborhood” is the best place to begin. Arriving at the airport mid-morning on a Saturday, a quick train ride (most fares, $5.50) to Market Street East station drops passengers off at the edge of the “hood”, as the locals have named it. The Gayborhood is located in Center City, a mixed use downtown revitalization project which is home to many Gay and Lesbian shops, bars, clubs, and restaurants. It shows – people walking or jogging, taking pets for outdoor constitutionals, drag queens and leather daddies standing on the same street corner.

First, a quick lunch. More Than Just Ice Cream (1119 Locust St.) is an unassuming, pleasant establishment offering –you guessed it- ice cream, but more. Divided into two dining areas, one with an ice cream counter and the other a proper dining room, locals meet and chat over plates of surprisingly good food. The wait staff is typical funky 20-somethings, but they are well versed in the menu and are easy to suggest favorites. Omelettes and salads are big on the menu as are sandwiches and fruits. A dessert menu is available however, with an old fashioned ice cream counter just steps away, I’m sure it doesn’t see much action.

Afternoons in Philadelphia can be spent walking the historic Society Hill streets or shopping on Walnut Street: think 5th Avenue but Philly style. The Reading Terminal Market (51 N. 12th St, #2) makes for interesting ‘farmers market’ style wandering and the many street vendors offering cheese steaks around the Liberty Bell park can help curb that mid afternoon snack hunger.

But save room for later because later promises to be a wing-dinger of a night.

A great start to the evening is pre-dinner snacks and drinks at El Vez (121-123 S. 13th St). One of restaurateur Stephen Starr’s newest additions to the Philly scene, El Vez is a brightly colored Mexican influenced corner spot just buzzing with young, single urbanites schmoozing and flirting over blood orange margaritas and snacking on probably the best tortilla chips ever made. Thick and crunchy, these chips come with a chunky guacamole served in a solid cast iron pot. The décor and vibe at El Vez is high energy and brightly colored, but is not a place for dinner conversation. The crowd can get a bit rowdy and soundproofing was obviously not paramount on the designers mind.

Across the street from El Vez is Lolita (106 S. 13th St), another recently opened restaurant in Philadelphia. Owner Valerie Safran and Chef/Owner Marcie Turney have worked to make this small and intimate setting an industrial but ultimately romantic space. Red brick walls and a completely open kitchen add to the warehouse feel, while low lighting and muted colors make a sensual space, perfect for a first date or a group meal. The menu is Latin influenced, with an American style. Ranging from pork chops to skirt steak to duck, the entrée selection offers something for every taste.

Instead of dessert at dinner, a quick hop and step to Capogiro (119 S. 13th St.) for gelato comes next. Serving gourmet gelato (over 20 flavors) in a small storefront, it’s the perfect way to curb that uneasy feeling having just finished a sumptuous dinner. The champagne mango gelato is great, as is the Mexican Chocolate – but watch out, it has a kick!

If a walk is in order after feasting like this, a stroll to Bump (1234 Locust St.) for cocktails is a flawless way to round out the evening. Bump is an ultra-loungey, ultra-hip, ultra-gay cocktail bar where the people are pretty and the servers, prettier. Specializing in high end martinis and trendy bar food, Bump offers a simultaneously energetic and serene finish to a great dining experience in Philadelphia.

Philly is a great town for eating and the chefs there know it. Bistros, BYOBs and eclectic eateries offer something for the foodie in all of us.

Bring your loose pants and enjoy Philadelphia’s Food!

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